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The fabric of choice in dress shirts is cotton. The natural breathability, comfortable feel, and overlay of cotton is what makes it so popular for shirt making. Polyester/cotton mixes can be found on occasion for dress shirts that need specific characteristics such as extra strength or wrinkle resistance. Though the polyester is usually the smaller ratio in the blend, otherwise the fabric will lack in breathability. Some dress shirts have silk blended in with the cotton, and this gives the shirt a strong sheen, though it loses some breathability.

White was the colour of choice for fine dress shirts in the past, in fact it was the only colour available. That changed in the 1900s when colors started to emerge, and then eventually patterns. The checked patterns was embraced by the country crowed, while the line pattern took over in the metropolitan areas. In the following paragraphs we will discuss the many different types of cottons in use for shirt tailoring.

Egyptian Cotton, as well as other luxury cottons, is characterized by its extra long staples (cotton fibers). Grown in the rich soil and humid conditions of the Nile River Valley, Egyptian cotton is incredibly strong, yet maintains a soft feel and lustrous appearance. The characteristic that gives Egyptian cotton its appeal as a luxury fabric for dress shirts is its ability to maintain crispness while remaining soft. Moreover, its staples are remarkably absorbent. For this reason it is often used for bath products, such as towels or bathrobes. Also, this absorbent quality allows it to absorb dyes better than many other fabrics — making it ideal for dress shirts with bold, strong colors. If cared for properly, this cotton can last for decades.

Many people are surprised to learn that Egyptian cotton is from the Native North American species Gossypium barbadense. It was introduced to Egypt in the 19th century by Mohammad Ali Pasha (the modern founder of Egypt). Egyptian cotton was developed and promoted during the American Civil War cotton famine. Today, Egyptian cotton is a favorite among dress shirt makers and clothiers around the world.

The other famous cotton in men’s luxury dress shirts is Sea Island cotton. Just off the coast of Georgia, in the United States, are the Sea Islands. This cotton comes from the same species as it’s rival Egyptian Cotton, and in fact is very similar. It is also a extra long staple, though it is ever so slightly softer than Egyptian. Both cottons are on a level playing ground, and most consider it a matter of personal preference which fabric they prefer.

Cotton growers from the Sea Islands attempted to grow Gossypium Barbadense in Burmuda at a time when growing could not be done in America due to the Civil War. There attempt was unsuccessful as the climate in Bermuda did not match that of the Sea Islands. The American Cotton industry took a large blow during this war, but since has made it’s recovery and Sea Island cotton is renown around the world to luxury tailors.

Pima cotton is considered a more common cotton. Grown in the southwest region of the United States, it can be said to be the United States’ answer to Egyptian cotton. It has similar properties to Egyptian cotton, though it has slightly shorter staples (cotton fibers). Pima cotton is one of the more durable cottons due to the thickness of the cloth, making it ideal for sox or other items requiring durability. Pima is often used in the making of dress shirts.

From the Gossypium barbadense species, Pima cotton owes its name to the Pima Native Americans who first cultivated it in the United States. Its cultivation originated from an experiment carried out in Arizona by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) in the early 1900′s. It didn’t gain popularity until the 1950′s, when a new pima seed was released that produced an increased staple length and higher yield.

The most common cotton in this day in age is Upland cotton. Not often used in luxury shirt making, this fabric now accounts for the majority of production in America. It comes in long and short staples.

Upland cotton is from the Gossypium hirsutum species, and is often referred to as “Mexican Cotton,” as evidence shows it has been cultivated for nearly 5000 years in the Tehuacan Valley of Mexico.

The major advantage of polyester fabric is that is does not wrinkle, since polyester fiber is much stiffer than cotton fiber. A 100 percent polyester fabric will maintain a permanent press, virtually never requiring ironing. Despite this, the fabric is not “breathable” in comparison to a natural fabric, making it undesirable for clothing in its 100% form. This is why polyester is often blended with cotton: this combination provides wrinkle resistance to the cotton fabric, while allowing the cotton to maintain its breathability and softness. In a 40% cotton-60% polyester blend, the fabric generally does not require ironing — though this combination produces a significant loss of breathability. In an 80% cotton-20% polyester blend, on the other hand, the shirt provides strong wrinkle resistance but will usually need to be ironed after washing. This latter percentage ratio is often used in dress shirt fabrics because it produces a virtually pure cotton feel as well as breathability, while maintaining strong wrinkle-resistant qualities.

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